Month: June 2011


In the past 20 years, the topic of ‘self-produced movement’ has been hot in the watch circle. The self-produced movement is narrowly interpreted as a movement designed, developed and produced by the watch brand itself, rather than outsourced to a third party. Many watch friends regard the self-produced movement as a gui, and believe that a brand is only powerful with a self-produced movement, and it is not worth buying without self-produced. Among the many cases of self-produced movements, two are very interesting and very representative. Today I will talk with you about them that have been misunderstood for a long time. IWC manufactured a number of clocks named after the company’s founder Florentine Ariosto Jones between 1868 and 1874. The ultra-long precision speed adjustment needle ‘Jones arrow Jones’ is the biggest feature of its movement. About 1440 Jones movements were manufactured. . After 2000, IWC successively introduced related commemorative models, which also used ultra-long speed and slow hands. However, for the Cal.98800 movement used in the new watches, many watch friends said that it was not produced by IWC, but was modified based on ETA6498, because their movements were the same. But in fact, IWC is really self-produced. We used the same camera position to shoot the IWC movement and the Unizeit ETA6498 movement, and then compared them, and found that although the naked eye seemed to be on the same road. But when the center wheel is fixed, the bearing positions of the balance wheel, escapement fork, escapement wheel, second wheel, three wheel, and large and small steel wheels are completely different, so they cannot be the same movement at all. For a movement that requires precise coordination, even a 1 mm position shift may cause the operation to stop. For the movement of the basic small three-pin function, the styling design of the circuit has been used for more than 200 years, and it has become a fixed formula. There can be no great changes. Just as a car has four wheels, it cannot be judged by the presence of ‘four wheels’ that a car of a certain car brand is another brand. This is unscientific. Relatively speaking, ETA6498 is more famous than Cal.98800, so everyone would think that Cal.98800 is derived from ETA6498. Simplicity @ ACM 万 国 ‘s Cal.98800 is real self-produced, but was mistaken for fake self-produced. The other watch is not completely self-produced, but a lot of other watch friends as real self-produced. It is the Simplicity of Dufour. Philippe Dufour @ ACM must talk to Philippe Dufour himself before talking about this watch. Philippe Dufour attended Ecole Technique de la Vallee de Joux watchmaking school when he was 15 years old. After graduation, he first worked at Jaeger-LeCoultre and then went to Audemars Piguet and Gerlad Genta. Later, he resigned and relied on repairing antique timepieces. In 1978, when Dufour was 30 years old, he began to conceive, and spent 4 years designing. Finally, in 1983, he independently created a large auto in his studio. Ming pocket watch (Dazhiming is a very very difficult function, which means that the clock will automatically tell the time after the hour and the whole time, the watch does not need to trigger). He had already resigned from his original job at that time, and did not have much savings or even the money to make a custom case for the movement. So from 1983 to 1988 he made 5 Grand & Petit Sonnerie Minute Repeater Clock Watches for Audemars Piguet outsourcing. In addition, it was later named Philippe Dufour, so there are only six such self-respecting pocket watches. In 1989, Philippe Dufour formally established a brand under its own name, and in 1992 launched a big self-sounding watch to surprise watch circles. In 1996, Philippe Dufour introduced the world’s first speed difference watch based on the concept of an antique pocket watch. It refers to a movement with two hairspring balance systems with the same frequency. Then the speed difference device can balance the two balances. The actual frequency of the wheel system makes it not too fast or too slow to achieve higher travel time accuracy. Simplicity @ ACM When everyone thought that Philippe Dufour would launch more complex watches, he did not go the usual way, making a simple three-hand watch Simplicity with the simplest structure, even without the calendar, only the hour, minute, Second hand. Simplicity @ ACM Although Simplicity looks simple, it is produced by Philippe Dufour using the most traditional Swiss watchmaking technology. It is completely different from the mass production of modern CNC machine tools. It is truly handmade. It is not too difficult to create a watch entirely by hand. The reason why Simplicity is successful is that Philippe Dufour uses ancient techniques to nearly polish, making the most common styles reach the highest level. Simplicity @ ACM has polished and chamfered the movement, and Philippe Dufour has achieved ‘the best’. In order to show off his skills and open up the gap with others, Philippe Dufour deliberately designed a few arcs and small corners on the movement’s splint. The polishing of these details has not been achieved by any modern brand before. Philippe Dufour’s Simplicity was released at the Basel Show in 2000. At the beginning, Philippe Dufour only planned to make 100 Simplicity. As a result, people kept asking for it and eventually added 200. In 14 years, Chinese collectors successfully ordered four special models. The prototype table numbered 000 is owned by Dufour himself. In addition, there is a diamond-shaped version numbered 201 and the mysterious number 205. Currently, there are 206 pieces. At the time, the first 200 pieces were priced at 48,000 to 64,000 Swiss francs, and now they are not found with lanterns. The latest transaction record shows that it has reached 275,000 Swiss francs, or about 1.9 million yuan, which has more than quadrupled. According to such a ‘record’, Philippe Dufour naturally has already been on the detective, and Simplicity, as the highest premium style, naturally attracted more attention. Considering that Philippe Dufour independently produced complex big self-sounding pocket watches, big self-sounding watches, and differential watches, many watch friends think that Simplicity is also a self-produced in the strict sense, but in fact this ‘easiest’ The watch is based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre Cal.478 movement. Unlike the previous IWC Jones watch, Simplicity of Philippe Dufour is really difficult to find a real sample for everyone to make a detailed comparison. Fortunately, the foreign watch media The naked watchmaker completely disassembled this watch and kept a lot of high-resolution photos on its website, which also gave us the opportunity to compare. Through photo overlays, you can clearly find that the bearing positions of Simplicity of Philippe Dufour and Jaeger-LeCoultre Cal.478 calibre, balance wheel, escapement wheel, escapement wheel, second wheel, three wheel, large and small steel wheels are completely coincide. As mentioned earlier, for the movement of the basic small three-pin function, the shape design of the circuit has been used for more than 200 years, it has become a fixed formula, and there can be no great changes. So some table friends may guess, is it very coincident that Simplicity and Cal.478 movement accidentally hit each other. For more rigor, we found another picture of the front of these two movements, this side is equipped with a large number of parts for winding and time adjustment. Through comparison, it can be clearly found that the components of the two movements are highly coincident. So, Simplicity is transformed from Jaeger-LeCoultre Cal.478 movement. After all, Philippe Dufour’s first job after leaving school was at Jaeger-LeCoultre, and he returned to his original starting point. A self-produced movement is not necessarily a good movement, and a good movement is not necessarily limited to a self-produced movement. It is undoubtedly one-sided to judge whether a movement is self-produced or not. Philippe Dufour’s non-produced small three-hand watch can still sell for 1.9 million yuan!

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