Mirror Symmetry Tasting Iwc Portugal Series Perpetual Calendar Dual Moon Phase Watch

On the 75th anniversary of the founding of Portugal as the most representative of IWC in 2015, it launched a number of stunning Portuguese series models on SIHH that year, which shined brightly. And the dual moon phase display perpetual calendar watch in this northern and southern hemisphere is even more dominant.

   Equipped with the newly developed 52615 automatic winding movement, which provides a power reserve of 7 days. For the moon phase display, the disc moon phase display is generally set at 12 o’clock, which increases the moon phase wheel and increases the number of gear teeth, thereby greatly reducing the error rate and making the display more accurate. Theoretically, the heir of this watch could not be handed over to the watchmaker until 577.5 years before the watch could adjust the moon phase display by one day.

   The white gold watch (Ref: IW503401) has a 44.2 mm diameter case and a night blue dial, which is very beautiful. The perpetual calendar displayed by dual moon phases shows the change of the moon phase profit and loss in the northern and southern hemispheres in a mirror-symmetrical manner. For the first time, the Portuguese series of classic rail-type minute circles was introduced. The entire moon phase display is designed as a starry night sky, and the moon and stars are suspended in an endless sky.

   Double-sided anti-reflective arched edge sapphire glass, night blue dial, date, day of the week and month are clearly set on three small dials. The layout is neat and easy to read. At 3 o’clock, there is a 7-day power reserve and date display; at 6 o’clock, the month is displayed; at 9 o’clock, the week and the small second dial are equipped with a stop device; at 12 o’clock, the north and south hemisphere moon phases are displayed, and four small dials Symmetric and neat. A four-digit year display is set between 7 and 8 o’clock.

   Screw-in platinum crown for easy serration operation. The consistent crown shape of the Portuguese series has the brand’s English logo engraved on the crown.

   The black crocodile leather strap is orange-yellow inside, exquisite and beautiful. It is custom-made by Italy’s top leather shoe manufacturer Santoni. Santoni’s family has two unique accomplishments on leather goods. One is stitching. Hand stitches are tied with a knot for each stitch, ensuring that the stitches will never come loose. The second is the famous patina effect, which is to produce an antique look by coating multiple layers of leather dyes. The folding buckle made of platinum is easy to wear, and the brushed buckle handle is engraved with the IWC brand logo.

   The thickness of the case is 15.3mm. The grooved bezel and the side of the case are brushed to maintain the usual style of the Portuguese series. The arched edge of the watch is visible. The drawing process on the side of the case is more textured. As the most prone to scratches, the drawing process makes the scratches less visible.

   The lugs follow the usual style of the Portuguese series, with natural arcs and polished and polished fronts.

   The sapphire is transparent, and the exquisite movement is clear at a glance. The exquisite design of the new Cal.52615 homemade movement is at a glance. There is no trimmer Glucydur® balance wheel. The balance wheel is equipped with trimmer screws, Breguet hairspring and 18K red gold rotor. Integrating the power of two barrels, the movement provides a power reserve of up to seven days and drives nine functions and displays. The Bieleton winding system with two-way winding is equipped with newly developed ceramic pawls to ensure the highest performance.

Summary: Equipped with the most practical perpetual calendar function among the three complicated functions, its mirror-symmetric dual moon phase display is the first of its kind in the world, allowing wearers in the southern hemisphere to view the correct moon phase position on the dial. Although there are many functions, the dial layout looks balanced and elegant. IWC’s complication watch has always had a good price-performance ratio in terms of price, which is a watch worth buying. The official price of this watch is currently ¥ 286,800.

Breguet Breguet Classic 3795 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Watch

Breguet watches always tell the passage of time in the most exquisite and elegant way. Since the birth of the brand, Breguet has created a series of perpetual calendars, each of which is a highly skilled art masterpiece. Although the Classique series already includes a variety of perpetual calendar products, Breguet watchmakers still decided to create a new style, the classic series 3795 tourbillon perpetual calendar watch, its invisible dial creates a subtle hollow model, as shown in perspective The complex construction of the movement.

The 3795 watch can be regarded as a true ‘high-order customization’ in the field of micromechanics. Its bridge has a lace-like engraving, which exquisitely shows Breguet’s superb skills. In this new product, Breguet watchmakers pay special attention to the natural display of scales, ensuring that it sets off the appeal of the watch. Breguet has added a third layer creatively. The hour and minute hands scales are displayed in front. This setting makes it easier to read the time, and at the same time other information on the dial can be seen at a glance. The 3795 watch cleverly implements these functions by mounting an eccentric sapphire disc on a flexible bracket. The non-transparent Roman numeral hour-marker scale circle, combined with the Breguet blue-steel hands with a hollow ‘moon-shaped’ needle point, can clearly and quickly display the time. Below the sapphire disc is a dial with Paris studs and a semicircle retrograde calendar display.
The 3795 watch’s one-minute tourbillon at six o’clock is ingeniously combined with the hour sign circle. The bridge is still beautifully chamfered, and a small three-pin second hand is set on the shaft. The day of the week is at 9 o’clock, decorated with wavy patterns, and the scroll cam built into the movement helps the week to jump instantly. The month display is indicated by a blue steel hand, which is located at 3 o’clock on the dial and decorated with solar radiation patterns. The ‘blue sun’ of the 3 o’clock month dial is used for leap year display.

Through the sapphire crystal case back, you can see the inner world of the watch. The transparent design makes the tourbillon jump in front of you. Breguet watchmakers’ sophisticated retouching skills give new life to the sculptural decoration, and the meticulous carving also seems to be writing the rhythm of rotation for the tourbillon dance.
In addition to outstanding performance in technology and design, the Classique Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel 3795 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar also has the classic characteristics of the Breguet timepiece. The case is made of rose gold or platinum, with delicate coin accents on the sides, and the independently welded lugs are secured with screws. The hand-engraved engraved dial, individually numbered, blued-steel hands, and concealed signatures are all signs of Breguet.

parameter:
Number: 3795PT / 1E / 9WU
Case: PT950 platinum, engraved with coin pattern on the outer edge. Sapphire crystal case back. 41 mm in diameter. Welded lugs are secured with screws. Water-resistant to 30 meters.
Dial: 18K gold-plated silver, hollowed out. With individual number and signature Breguet. A sapphire disc with Roman numerals and a Breguet blue-steel pointer with a cut-out ‘moon-shaped’ tip. A retrograde date is displayed at 12 o’clock, an ephemeris is displayed at 9 o’clock, and a leap year cycle is displayed at 3 o’clock. The small second hand rests on the tourbillon shaft.
Movement: Manually wound movement with tourbillon and perpetual calendar. Individually engraved with BREGUET CAL. 558QP3. 14½ cents, 21 rubies. 50-hour power reserve. Side lever escapement, Breguet hairspring, balance weight. Vibration frequency 2.5 Hz. 6 party adjustment.
Strap: leather, with folding clasp.
Also available in rose gold: Model 3795BR / 1E / 9WU